Craters and Rock Formations
Craters for 28mm by jackcrow, found on Thingiverse.
Desert-themed Scatter Terrain for 28mm Gaming by rbross, from Thingiverse.
thingiverse.com - Desert-themed Scatter Terrain for 28mm Gaming by rbross
Here are the finished items, painted and dressed by my bud Morgan Darkstar – cheers dude!
All printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at 0.2mm layer height with 13% infill. The work-in-progress Carmageddon vehicle is there for scale purposes.
More of the finished rock formations.
Yet more finished rock formations.
The last of the finished rock formations as well as the finished craters.
I really like the idea of having billboards in the playing area. Not only do they make things harder by blocking line of sight, they can also add atmosphere when you put suitable adverts/posters on them.
These particular 28mm Broadside Billboards are by the talented Curufin on Thingiverse.
They were printed in PLA on the Cetus-3D at 0.2mm layer height with a 20% infill. Once painted, they will be decorated with a variety of adverts – some from the http://Gaslands.com downloads area, and others designed by myself in Photoshop.
The printed and glued billboards as well as a couple of items from the previously mentioned Hayland Gasland collections of Weapons and Armour Plating.
The first batch of finished billboards shown with the WIP Carmageddon car for scale.
Carmageddon outta here!
Just in case anyone is interested in the Carmageddon car that appeared in an earlier post, here’s some more info.
The model is “Car toy - 3DRacers, RC car” by 3DRacers - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:647389
It was printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at 0.1mm layer height with a 20% infill, mostly to protect the wheel spikes and split axle pins. Since the model also comes in a split file version, you can just do the fine/small detail parts in high-res/slow mode and the other bits as usual. It’s also handy that the files are split up since I can definitely see me printing more of the wheels, ram and rear bumper for future kit-bashing projects.
The additional (grey and white) parts are from various Games Workshop Warhammer 40k sprues (courtesy of my bud Morgan Darkstar, thanks dude!) and the weird-looking skull on the crossed bones hood ornament is from the Skulls and Skeletons section of a Kickstarter I backed by Kevin Rau (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1978496658/rpg-tools-rpg-wargame-3d-printable-items) because I couldn’t find my fantasy bits-box and was too impatient to hunt it out!
Road Markers and Sign Posts
These are just the annoying bits of ‘table fluff’ that get in your way as you’re trying to draw a bead on your enemy but somehow get under your wheels and up your hazard token count!
The glorified traffic cones are 28mm Road Pylons by ISOpod, found on Thingiverse - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2117413
They were printed in PLA on the Cetus-3D at 0.1mm and 20% infill to make sure the top ‘handle bit’ printed OK. As it turns out, I should have upped the infill a bit since my Lokbuild print surface wouldn’t part with them and I ended up damaging a couple of the base layers trying to free them.
The wasteland signposts are from Thunderchrome’s first Kickstarter, as part of the Hot-Rod Garage. I believe you can buy them from their webstore or (since they are effectively just a wheel with a post stuck in it with a jerry can wedged on top) source/design your own and have at it.
thunder-chrome.com - Thunder Chrome - 3d printable post apocalyptic scenery
They were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at 0.2mm/20% infill.
I suspect I may mount them on small metal washers since they are so small/light - shame we did away with ½p pieces! The idea is to paint direction arrows on them to help the directionally challenged.
Here are some of the printed pylons and signs.
Finally, here's the painted jerry can signs and road pylons shown alongside the work-in-progress Carmageddon vehicle for scale.
Gaslands - Flags and Gun Towers
If you want to run a Capture the Flag or Monster Truck Smash scenario, you’re going to need some flags.
If you want to scare the beejeebus out of your players in an Arena of Death battle, you’re going to need heaps of gun turrets… unless you suck at rolling 2d6 in which case you only need a couple!
The flags are “Seej Penon, Rounded” flags by ‘zheng3’ from Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106377
The gun turrets are “Laser Turret - Starfinder - 28mm” by ‘Physirus’, also from Thingiverse – thingiverse.com - Laser Turret - Starfinder - 28mm by Physirus
I printed out a dozen of each on my Cetus-3D. The flags were done at 0.2mm layer height and 20% infill, whereas the turrets were done at 0.2mm layer height and 60% infill. The higher infill was because there’s a fair amount of fine/fiddly detail on the turrets and I wanted to ensure as much strength as possible whilst retaining detail. As it happens I had to trim the top 4-5mm from each antenna on the guns because a couple broke off while I was removing the small amount of support material. I could have trimmed them all down and drilled holes for wire but, hey-ho I have way too much other stuff to try and get done!
The flags were mounted on metal washers to add base weight/make them more stable and I created a 30mm chamfered square base in Tinkercad to mount the turrets on. You could use standard 40mm gaming bases for the turrets, but I wanted something smaller.
The miscellaneous stuff in the foreground is (left to right):
(left) various small armour plating designs I've been working on, (lower middle) some small spiked/bladed wheels, (centre middle) a model based on the car from the video game "Carmageddon", and (right) larger versions of the bladed/spiked wheels.
A selection of the painted flag markers shown alongside the progressing Carmageddon vehicle for scale purposes.
Here are the finished gun turrets.
I think I may need to shade the concrete legs but there’s still so many other bits of scenery to work on…
And lastly, a close-up shot with a Hot Wheels car thrown in for scale.
Lately, I’ve been having way too much fun playing a game called Gaslands. It’s a post-apocalyptic vehicular combat game. Note that I said 'vehicular' and not just car – that’s because in Gaslands you get to hoon around in everything from bikes, trikes, bikes and sidecars, buggies, cars, performance cars, trucks, vans, pick-up trucks, buses, monster trucks, tractors, war rigs, gyrocopters, helicopters, and even tanks! It’s awesome fun and you know what makes it even more awesomer, er.. funner...? You get to play it using Matchbox and Hot Wheels toy cars!
Within minutes of setting up the table, I guarantee that your inner child will have escaped and you’ll be pushing the cars all over the place making ‘vroom’ sounds, tyre screeches and your bestest ‘dakka-dakka-BOOM!’ noises.
Or maybes that’s just me…
Anyways, Gaslands is written by Mike Hutchinson and is published by Osprey Games. All you need to start playing are a handful of d6, some toy cars and a copy of the rules. Chances are you already have more six-sided dice than is good for you and you may either have some old cars stashed away in the loft or a child of your own (hopefully not stashed away in the loft!) that you can convince to part with some. The rulebook costs £11.99 (or around £10 on Amazon I think), and all the help and support (along with some stonking inspiration) can be found at www.Gaslands.com
Every good tabletop game needs scenery and Gaslands is just crying out for some post-apocalyptic wasteland terrain to help get you in the mood for a spot of vehicular violence. I mean, what else are you going to try and swerve behind to avoid your enemy’s shots only to miscalculate your manoeuvre, collide with and die in a fiery cartwheeling ball of death? There’s a whole bunch of stuff available to either just print ‘n’ paint or (my favourite) kit-bash together for that truly ‘authentic’ wasteland look.
Over the past month I’ve been busy printing and modelling all manner of goodies for use with Gaslands. I’m under some tight time constraints here at Spanky HQ just now, so a couple of buddies have kindly stepped in to help out. Unfortunately, this means that I won’t be able to show you the ‘before’ shots as usual, instead, you’ll just have to make do with the finished item and my notes on how we got it to that stage.
For the meantime, here’s some stuff I’m working on.
Gaslands - Gates
Some of the scenarios in Gaslands require the vehicles to pass through gates in a particular order as well as a start/finish line.
After tinkering about with some designs of my own and not being particularly happy with any of them, I stumbled upon a design on Thingiverse for a Small checkpoint gate for small R/C or slotcars by MoMaHo.
Although they are a simple design, what attracted me to them was (a) they aren’t too stylised which means I can tweak them to my heart's content, and (b) they are designed to easily expand/contract according to how wide you need the gates to be. Sweet!
I opted to print out four gates worth of parts on the Cetus-3D (0.2mm layer height at 20% infill for strength and weight) which should be enough for a 4’x4’ race area.
The clearance on these is between 14cm to 22cm (inner tyre edges) with a top clearance of 9cm. Pretty much the only thing that won’t fit under it is a big war rig, but to be honest you wouldn’t be racing war rigs… would you? Hmm.
The front gates are shown at minimum width, the back ones at max. That's a standard Hot Wheels sized vehicle there to give an indication of scale.
Next up, I wanted a way to indicate (a) what the gate number was (or if it was the Start/Finish line) etc., and (b) which was the correct way through the gate. I modified some Ork Armour Plates from Tinkercad (by simonjhenry), scaled them up and glued them in place. The idea will be to rust/weather them and then scrawl over them in a graffiti-like manner with the relevant information.
A rear view of an unpainted Gaslands gate. That small plate at the top will have a big red 'X' scrawled on it to show how much of a doofus you are for going the wrong way.
Here are the finished and painted gates. Below you'll see the front and back of gates 1 and 2.
The next photo gives side views of gates 3 and 4, showing direction arrows.
If anyone is interested, you can get my remixed gate/ork armour plate files from Thingiverse: thingiverse.com - Gaslands Race Gate by SpankyTaz
Finished a few more prints on the Creality CR-10 this week. All fantasy-based this time since I'm gearing up to start some Frostgrave sessions soon.
Here's part of a set for an Adventurer's Campsite. These came from Thingiverse (links to follow) but I think the designer has a more detailed/extra bits set available on DriverThru RPG.
Again, these are straight off the print bed without any touch-ups or finishing.
I realised that I often just post pictures of stuff without anything else next to them to give any idea as to their size.
Here's a small monument/statue that has attracted the attention of Snotwrangle the 25mm and Brutus the 28mm.
I'll post file/printer settings later once I have dug them out.
Quite chuffed with how well the fine detail on the plinth inscriptions and thin cloak/robe materials have printed.
Considering how big the print area on the CR-10 is, it really can do some exceptionally fine detail.
Last one for the day. This is the Dragon Arch from Printable Scenery.
Snotwrangle the 25mm and Brutus the 28mm seem to be squaring off to see who gets to go through it first...
Even without any post-printing work, the detail comes through very well and I think this will work really well as part of the Frostgrave scenery.
The glorious detailing is carried over onto the rear of the piece as well.
I can heartily recommend Matt and the peeps over at Printable Scenery, their design skills are top-notch and the value you get from their Kickstarters is astounding. You could easily fill multiple battle boards with their stuff, or even just pick up one or two bits to print and flesh out your own work.
So I'm finally back up and about after my health took a dip and laid me out for the end part of 2017.
I was asked to help out a couple of friends at my gaming club (W.A.R.P.) who wanted to give the new version (v8) of Warhammer 40K a try. They had the game rules and the models, and I had a new battlemat to try as well as a ridonculous amount of (sadly still unpainted) scenery so I was happy to help out.
The 6'x4' battlemat is the Desert Earth one from Leodis Games Board Matz range. I got mine from their recent Kickstarter (shocker, I know!) and they have since expanded the range to include many more styles.
With the exception of the rear gantry, the tall spire/furnace bits sitting on top and the Games Workshop minis/vehicles/dice, everything else on the table is 3D printed.
Oh, not the long pipes (that's PVC piping) and the tanks of the two storage tanks with ladders on just beyond the fencing (they are Coke cans), but everything else is. Honest!
Some eye candy for the 40K fans.
And there's just something that appeals to me about this Nurgle Mortar piece.
I should also say that the scenery on the table was about a quarter of what I had brought along, which in turn was about a third of what I have printed so far.
I suspect I may need more space soon since the new Fallout skirmish game is rumoured to be about to land and I have a stupid amount of post-apocalypse scenery that needs printing...
A good friend of mine (Vontravelle) came to my aid one night when a water pipe burst in the kitchen and so I was more than happy to help him out when he asked me for a favour. He's a fellow GM at our local gaming club (W.A.R.P.) and he's currently running a Call of Cthulhu game wherein he found himself in need of a Cthonian critter to inflict upon his players.
He found this model on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080964
However, he was unsure of how to get it printed on his newly acquired printer since it isn't a 'printer ready' .STL file, but rather a 3D model object (.obj) file.
I went through the problems of getting it to print - scaling it up, adding support materials, etc. and I could see he wasn't looking too confident so I offered to work on it for him.
First I loaded it into the new version of Simplify3D (v4) and set about scaling it up to 60mm. Next I manually added in some support material to all of the areas that I thought my Creality CR-10 would need them - namely the tentacles and one small area of body overhang. Finally, I altered the layer height down from 0.2mm to 0.15mm and then saved off the gcode to a memory card ready for printing.
Two hours and twenty minutes later, here's what it came out like.
The tentacles need a touch up (ooh, er, madam!) and I'll probably sculpt some additional ones to add into its maw because I just think it needs them.
While looking for some painting inspiration (do YOU know what colour these things are supposed to be?) I came across a fantastic painting guide online by a chap called Joe Baird - The Broken Paintbrush. I thoroughly recommend you pay his blog (https://brokenpaintbrush.com) or G+ page (https://plus.google.com/+Brokenpaintbrushpage) a visit.
Here's the other side. Also, I've just blasted it with a hairdryer on hot to soften up the PLA and that has allowed me to enhance the bend on some of the existing tentacles.
It's gone 2.15am now so I'll set about sculpting with the green stuff tomorrow and see if I can get some paint on it before the game on Sunday.
Later that morning I quickly rolled up some green stuff tentacles and started twisting them into shape.
I'll apply a little detail when they begin to harden and once they're completely dry I'll cut/dry fit them until I'm happy with the look
Here's the model primed and awaiting the (slowly) drying tentacles. The miniature holder is one of the ones I got as part of a Kickstarter run by Rathcore.com. I got one of each (32, 54 and 75mm) and that's the mid-sized one with the 54mm bar. They are extremely useful and very comfortable to hold for extended periods. I had no idea how much more 'usable' a mini holder is when it has a finger bar on it and how much hand tremor it can alleviate. I still use my old standby of a paint pot with 'Blutack' (poster putty) on it to do quick paint jobs or when I'm batch base coating, etc.
The patches of green stuff are filling small holes left from the rendered model not meshing a few of the very extreme overhangs amongst the base rubble properly. As I said, this wasn't a 'ready to print' file and if time hadn't been such an issue I'd have liked to rework/remodel a lot more of it in order to avoid these issues. Still, it used up the tiny amount of green stuff left over from sculpting the tentacles, so no waste.
While I type this up I'm 'baking' the green stuff tentacles on the CR-10's hotbed as I print some test 25mm miniature bases for some of the models I got from the Reaper Bones 3 Kickstarter. A bit of an experiment but hey, the bed would be on while I was doing the printing so I figured why not?
And here he/she/it is, fully tentacled up.
Once the glue has had time to dry I'll prime the green stuff and then try and get some paint on it tonight before I host my Saturday Roll20 session.
Here's a quick pic I managed to snap before I handed off the finished model.
Not the best paint job in the world, but for less than an hour in total (including varnishing), good enough to put on a table and scare the beejebus out of some unsuspecting Call of Cthulhu players...
My new airbrush setup arrived today (along with the 4'x4' TriCity neoprene battlemat from Gamemat.eu) and so there should be some photos soon of painted bits beginning to populate the tabletop.
Although it's been a while since my last post, things have by no means slowed down. It did get a tad too manic here of late as I was trying to get stuff done while the place was being worked on by builders for a fortnight. Just when I thought the worst of it was done... a pipe burst in the kitchen! Bugger.
Anyways, all done now and hopefully (fingers crossed) I can get back into the full swing of things.
My Shadow War: Armageddon terrain is almost entirely printed/assembled now (95% at least) and so the task turns once more to painting. The lack of any really dependable summer up here in the North of England means that the number of suitable days to get outside and prime the mountain of plastic bits has so far amounted to less than a handful. To that end, I bit the bullet and bought myself a small portable spray booth (complete with extraction fan and filters) so that I can at least air brush in volume indoors. £50 including delivery from eBay. The daylight LED strip is the one from my portable painting station until I can source a spare one.
A saltbeard Grognard who's glad he never grew up enough to lose his imagination.