Gaslands Scrap/Spares Projects
OK, so you’ve culled your vehicle collection and you find a bunch of spare, duplicate, out-of-scale, whatever cars. What to do with them?
I have 24 cars that I definitely won’t be using as team vehicles in Gaslands and rather than just bin them or leave them cluttering up my (already overcrowded) workspace, I decided to see what I could make of them.
The first thing to do is take them apart and, (a) remove the faux glass, then (b) take the wheels off.
Luckily, all but one of the cars is a terribad Chinese model that is only held together with a front and back clip.
Once the glass and wheels are out, pop them back together and set aside. Rinse/repeat.
Fifteen minutes later I’m left with a pile of glass and wheel free cars, and a stupid number of wheels on flimsy wire axles.
Now it’s time to put my thinking cap on…
After an overnight ponder, I’ve decided to go with these three simple projects and, depending on how they turn out (or how much time/resources they consume), I may add more.
Project 1 – Junk/scrap heaps
Project 2 – Wall/barrier decorations
Project 3 – Junkyard Totem Pole
It’s amazing how satisfying a 15-minute workout with a hammer, a Dremel and a blowtorch can be!
Here is the focus of said workout, all ready to be repurposed.
First up are four junk piles.
The cars have been hot glued into position on some roughly printed rectangular bases. The glue was also smeared around the top of the base to give an underlying texture that will be covered in grit before I prime them.
Rusting Cargo/Shipping Containers
The files for these 20’ and 40’ shipping containers by jrobertfox came from Thingiverse:
There’s not a lot of info in the files but the Thingiverse description does give some handy tips on scaling them up/down to match various tabletop scales. Well done for adding that!
Once I had printed out a half dozen in PLA on the Cetus-3D (0.2mm layer height, 13% infill), I primed them in the same way I did my ‘Rusty Fuel Silos and Gas Tanks’ (see relevant post for details) and then followed up with a liberal coating of hairspray.
Here are the finished containers.
Junk Yard scenery
As part of Hayland Terrain’s “Universal Tile – 28mm Terrain” Kickstarter there was a collection of files labelled as “Junk Yard Set”. I printed them out a while ago for use in another project, but they never got used and as such, I didn’t take any ‘before’ photos of them fresh off the printer. In fact, they were done so long ago that I can’t recall which machine I printed them on or what settings I used beyond PLA and my standard 0.2mm layer height. The level of infill is a mystery, but by weight I’d say between 10 to 20%.
Here’s the finished models – the crusher and large/small junk piles.
Here’s the reverse view with a Hot Wheels car thrown in for scale.
Rusting Fuel Silos and Gas Tanks
The basis for these bits of scenery come from the Necroplex Kickstarter – namely the bases, end caps, and a couple of support brackets. You can buy the Canister Pack directly from Necroplex.com now.
They were printed on a Cetus-3D in PLA at a 0.2mm layer height using a 20% infill for speed vs. strength.
Then I attached them to a few empty soft drink cans and roughly primed them in red and brown splotches - ideally, leave them to dry between colours or you’ll get the muddy-brown mess that I did!
Here are the vertical silos.
And here is the tank.
The next step is to liberally coat them with hairspray - any brand, but get the ‘firmest hold’ you can find. This will form a protective layer between the underlying ‘rust colour’ and the actual paint colour I want them to be. Sounds weird, but there’s method in my madness…
Once the hairspray has totally dried, it’s time to apply the top colours. However, before they dry I take a wet toothbrush (preferably one that nobody is going to use – unless you have a hated sibling!) and scrub/scuff away at various areas to reveal the ‘rust colour’ underneath. The hairspray is acting as a barrier so only the top coat is being removed.
If I wanted a more chipped/pitted effect, I would have sprinkled salt (either sea salt granules or table salt grains, depending on the texture I wanted) onto the freshly sprayed hairspray before the top coat stage.
This gives a similar effect to the chipping mediums you can buy for miniatures, etc. but at a fraction of the price – which is important when you’re looking at large/multiple pieces of terrain.
This next image is after the main top colours have been applied and ‘attacked’ with a wet toothbrush (to hit the main areas and get into the angles) and some kitchen towel (to scrub away and dab at edges to add shape).
Next up is painting the metal work and then (while it’s still wet) dabbing at it with more kitchen towel to remove bits and reveal the base rust colours.
Final touches are a couple of sponged on stencils and an overall grimy wash.
Here are the finished items – front view.
A rear view with the horizontal tank in front.
Ramps for Gaslands
These ramps come from Hayland Terrain’s “Gaslands Track Accessories” pack.
There’s a bunch of other useful bits in the pack (tyre walls, wheel stacks, crash barriers and drums, etc.) but I have already made a whole bunch of those for earlier projects, however the ramps appealed to me. They come in two sizes and can be used as a pair (steeper take-off ramp, shallower landing ramp) or else print two of each for matched pairs.
Since they are 3D files, you can scale them up/down as much as you want, although I wouldn’t go too mad on upscaling as the diamond patterning is going to look more like difficult terrain rather than texture!
These were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at 0.2mm layer height using a 13% infill. They were then primed black, sponged with a metallic gunmetal and then hit with a brown wash to dull them and make them look used.
As usual, the Hot Wheels car is shown for scale.
At the moment, Gaslands doesn’t have any official jump rules, but I’m more than happy with the wonderful house rules Dave Graffam has provided for us: outworld-studio.com - www.outworld-studio.com/gaslands/pdf/Falling-and-Jumping.pdf
Gaslands Gate Lines by Hayland Terrain
These come from Hayland Terrain’s “Gaslands Girders and Gates” pack.
I have previously shown the printed and painted girders from the pack and the numbered gate markers and arrows will be appearing soon.
All were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at 0.2mm layer height and 13% infill.
Gaslands Scenery from Hayland Terrain
More scenery from Hayland Terrain, this time from their Fantasy Scatter stretch goal pack from their 28mm Fantasy Scenery - Dragonbite – OpenLOCK Kickstarter (not sure if you can buy this from their website), as well as some more bits from the Gaslands Street Accessories pack (https://haylandterrain.com/collections/gaslands). Just to show that you can often mix 28mm stuff in with 20mm scenery, so don’t be afraid to improvise.
All were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA using a 0.2mm layer height and 13% infill for the brick pieces and 20% infill for the two bits that have metalwork, just to help prevent breakages.
A closer look at the 28mm bits from the fantasy scatter pack.
And here's the 20mm bits from the Gaslands Street Accessories pack.
Now, as they’re based and painted, it’s onwards to more stuff…
Gaslands Girders from Hayland Terrain
Apart from Gaslands (obviously), these would work just as well with any tabletop game - I’m especially thinking Fallout Wasteland Warfare.
These are from the Gaslands Girders & Gates pack and the Gaslands Street Accessories pack by Hayland Terrain.
They have been printed in PLA on the Cetus-3D at 0.2mm layer height with a 13% infill.
Here's a couple of closer shots.
Now that they’re based (i.e. had some additional grit added in places) and painted/washed, I can move on to something else.
Start/Finish Lines for Gaslands
I wanted some start and finish lines for use on either a dirt track or an abused/abandoned raceway. I couldn’t find anything online so I made my own.
The detail can be hard to pick out before they’re painted, so I’d recommend priming them in grey and hitting them with a black wash to help pick out the bits of lettering that’s poking out of the dirt/hasn’t been scuffed off.
They are designed to be used either with or without gates.
These were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA at a 0.2mm layer height, and with a 65% infill to retain as much of the letter/texture detail as possible.
I sponged on random dirt/stone colours over the textures and then painted the visible lettering before hitting the entire thing with a black wash to darken the yellow and weather the rest.
The Hot Wheels car is there for scale.
Here they are with one of my gates.
I've also done a line without text for use as a regular gate line.
If anyone wants the files, you can find them on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2833032
To Base, or not to Base?
This is pretty much the ‘Marmite’ topic amongst Gaslands fans – you either like the idea or don’t, and it’s usually linked to the argument of gluing the wheels or not. Personally, I don’t mind either way and can see the attraction of both. On the one hand, basing the vehicle (or gluing the wheels) means that it doesn’t accidentally move about during play, and is pretty much a necessity if/when the ramps/jumping rules come out. Then again, our inner child wants the wheels to run free as we hoon around the table during setup making ‘vroom-vroom’ noises whilst pulling off handbrake turns to the sound of screeching tyres…
What I opted for was to make bases for my vehicles but to not permanently attach them, instead I keep them held in place with a small tab of BluTak (poster putty). This way I know the vehicles won’t unnecessarily move around during play (even on ramps) but I can still act like a TWOCing hooligan with the rest of the players as we set the table up!
My particular bases (like most of my stuff) are 3D printed. I took the inset roadway piece from this Thingiverse file (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976139) “Cobblestone Road Base for models” by Prognosis and scaled it up to 60mm x 30mm x 2mm. This is large enough so that the templates can be easily used, but not so large as to detract from the vehicle. The beauty of them being 3D printable is that I can resize them at will to match any size vehicle. You could use pieces of plasticard or thin MDF if you don’t have access to a 3D printer and add some texture using wall filler (like ‘driving’ the car through it to leave tyre tracks), or just sponge on random patterns to simulate a texture.
These ones were printed on my Cetus-3D in PLA at a 0.2mm layer height using a 13% infill. The cars are for scale purposes – a Hot Wheels vehicle bracketed by a pair of unpainted Devil’s Run vehicles.
A saltbeard Grognard who's glad he never grew up enough to lose his imagination.