My latest project finally arrived today - well, 95% of it as the remaining two bits are lagging a week behind.
The box contains almost all my Fallout Wasteland Warfare Vault Tec Complete Package (https://www.modiphius.net/collections/fallout-wasteland-warfare/products/fallout-wasteland-warfare-vault-tec-complete-package-bundle), with just the two sets of Wasteland Starter Scenery due to ship next week.
Modipius has been plagued by delays in getting this stuff out (I ordered mine way back in March) but I have to say that although the wait has been agony, the final product is amazing!
In total there are 86 minis, 73 are resin and the 13 in the 2 Player Starter Set are PVC. I believe that they’re opting to go resin on all future core boxes and expansions and just keeping the starter sets as PVC to reduce costs and shipping weight.
I’ll pop more photos up once I start assembling and painting as I have been designing and printing some 3D additions to add to the tabletop experience.
3D Printed Miniatures – Some Initial Tests
Having followed Danny H, the 3D Printed Tabletop DM on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCr_uz-iWzyR1VJNlN-E1y7w) almost since he began, I thought it was about time I had another go at doing some gaming miniatures rather than my usual tabletop scenery. Following the advice in the Tabletop 3D Printing Guild Facebook pages (https://www.facebook.com/groups/892975347554507/?source_id=169821116961583), I decided to use the two free demo files from HeroForge.com as my test subjects. The female Explorer and the male Paladin.
Initially, I’m just printing them on my Creality CR-10 in PLA using the ‘Miniatures’ settings in Chris Elkin’s Simplify3D profile (available from the CR-10 Printer User Group on Facebook). Later, I’ll try them on my other machines, and again on the CR-10 but using a Cura profile (which will be new to me) on the CR-10 and the soon-to-arrive Creality Ender 3.
First up is the female Explorer figure. After loading the file into Simplify3D, placing it base down on the build plate and adjusting the auto-support setting down from 4.5mm to 1.5mm, I added a couple of extra supports that the auto settings had missed. I find that it’s always a good idea to give it an all-around once over eyeball first before committing it to slice since S3D can be lazy at times when it comes to placing supports. I saved the .gcode off to a micro-SD card after slicing the file - S3D claimed it would take 1 hour 28 minutes to print.
BTW, it lied.
After setting the print away on the CR-10, two hours 3 minutes later I was presented with this.
Buried amongst that mass of plastic there is (hopefully) an acceptable mini.
Taking it off the print bed and over to the work area, I examine the results in closer detail. Nothing seems wonky or broken. We shall see once I begin to cut away the support material.
And here she is.
That pile of shredded junk next to her is the removed support material. It took about five minutes to free her up, making sure not to either (a) be too heavy-handed and apply too much pressure in the wrong place, and (b) be too snip-happy with the side cutters and trim away anything that wasn’t actually meant to be cut off!
Been there before in both cases…
Here’s the back of the figure. She still needs a bit of touching up (oo-er, missus!) to get rid of some small defects and apart from the lower corner of her book and the bottom edge of her rear armour, I can’t immediately spot anything that’s gone awry.
We’ll see what the final results look like once she’s been painted and I’ll compare her to the other ones from my other printers.
This is the male Paladin figure after removal from the CR-10 build plate. Same settings as used on the Female Explorer above. Simplify3D said 1 hour 32 minutes, but the actual time it took was 2 hours 3 minutes.
No obvious damage or defects but even with smaller supports, there is still a bunch of stuff to strip away to reveal the print. Time to get snipping. I don’t think this one will be as easy to free up as the first one.
I was right. The support material was a bit of a nightmare to get rid of and cleaning the mess out from between the Paladins legs - well, let’s just say that’s a phrase I hope never to have to repeat again…
Overall though, I think it turned out OK. The sword blade definitely needs ‘sharpening’ but otherwise, the detail came out and more importantly, nothing got lost – either in the printing or support removal stages.
Here they are painted, standing atop a piece of Amera terrain (F218 Temple Ruins). All painted/detailed by my buddy Loupis.
A brighter (but crappier) pic taken with the flash on my phone.
You can find the Amera website here.
amera.co.uk - Amera Plastic Mouldings
So I'm finally back up and about after my health took a dip and laid me out for the end part of 2017.
I was asked to help out a couple of friends at my gaming club (W.A.R.P.) who wanted to give the new version (v8) of Warhammer 40K a try. They had the game rules and the models, and I had a new battlemat to try as well as a ridonculous amount of (sadly still unpainted) scenery so I was happy to help out.
The 6'x4' battlemat is the Desert Earth one from Leodis Games Board Matz range. I got mine from their recent Kickstarter (shocker, I know!) and they have since expanded the range to include many more styles.
With the exception of the rear gantry, the tall spire/furnace bits sitting on top and the Games Workshop minis/vehicles/dice, everything else on the table is 3D printed.
Oh, not the long pipes (that's PVC piping) and the tanks of the two storage tanks with ladders on just beyond the fencing (they are Coke cans), but everything else is. Honest!
Some eye candy for the 40K fans.
And there's just something that appeals to me about this Nurgle Mortar piece.
I should also say that the scenery on the table was about a quarter of what I had brought along, which in turn was about a third of what I have printed so far.
I suspect I may need more space soon since the new Fallout skirmish game is rumoured to be about to land and I have a stupid amount of post-apocalypse scenery that needs printing...
A good friend of mine (Vontravelle) came to my aid one night when a water pipe burst in the kitchen and so I was more than happy to help him out when he asked me for a favour. He's a fellow GM at our local gaming club (W.A.R.P.) and he's currently running a Call of Cthulhu game wherein he found himself in need of a Cthonian critter to inflict upon his players.
He found this model on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080964
However, he was unsure of how to get it printed on his newly acquired printer since it isn't a 'printer ready' .STL file, but rather a 3D model object (.obj) file.
I went through the problems of getting it to print - scaling it up, adding support materials, etc. and I could see he wasn't looking too confident so I offered to work on it for him.
First I loaded it into the new version of Simplify3D (v4) and set about scaling it up to 60mm. Next I manually added in some support material to all of the areas that I thought my Creality CR-10 would need them - namely the tentacles and one small area of body overhang. Finally, I altered the layer height down from 0.2mm to 0.15mm and then saved off the gcode to a memory card ready for printing.
Two hours and twenty minutes later, here's what it came out like.
The tentacles need a touch up (ooh, er, madam!) and I'll probably sculpt some additional ones to add into its maw because I just think it needs them.
While looking for some painting inspiration (do YOU know what colour these things are supposed to be?) I came across a fantastic painting guide online by a chap called Joe Baird - The Broken Paintbrush. I thoroughly recommend you pay his blog (https://brokenpaintbrush.com) or G+ page (https://plus.google.com/+Brokenpaintbrushpage) a visit.
Here's the other side. Also, I've just blasted it with a hairdryer on hot to soften up the PLA and that has allowed me to enhance the bend on some of the existing tentacles.
It's gone 2.15am now so I'll set about sculpting with the green stuff tomorrow and see if I can get some paint on it before the game on Sunday.
Later that morning I quickly rolled up some green stuff tentacles and started twisting them into shape.
I'll apply a little detail when they begin to harden and once they're completely dry I'll cut/dry fit them until I'm happy with the look
Here's the model primed and awaiting the (slowly) drying tentacles. The miniature holder is one of the ones I got as part of a Kickstarter run by Rathcore.com. I got one of each (32, 54 and 75mm) and that's the mid-sized one with the 54mm bar. They are extremely useful and very comfortable to hold for extended periods. I had no idea how much more 'usable' a mini holder is when it has a finger bar on it and how much hand tremor it can alleviate. I still use my old standby of a paint pot with 'Blutack' (poster putty) on it to do quick paint jobs or when I'm batch base coating, etc.
The patches of green stuff are filling small holes left from the rendered model not meshing a few of the very extreme overhangs amongst the base rubble properly. As I said, this wasn't a 'ready to print' file and if time hadn't been such an issue I'd have liked to rework/remodel a lot more of it in order to avoid these issues. Still, it used up the tiny amount of green stuff left over from sculpting the tentacles, so no waste.
While I type this up I'm 'baking' the green stuff tentacles on the CR-10's hotbed as I print some test 25mm miniature bases for some of the models I got from the Reaper Bones 3 Kickstarter. A bit of an experiment but hey, the bed would be on while I was doing the printing so I figured why not?
And here he/she/it is, fully tentacled up.
Once the glue has had time to dry I'll prime the green stuff and then try and get some paint on it tonight before I host my Saturday Roll20 session.
Here's a quick pic I managed to snap before I handed off the finished model.
Not the best paint job in the world, but for less than an hour in total (including varnishing), good enough to put on a table and scare the beejebus out of some unsuspecting Call of Cthulhu players...
So last night (or rather, stupid o'clock this morning) I was browsing through Thingiverse when I stumbled upon this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2140897
I've come across miniature holders before (indeed, I'm expecting delivery of some wooden ones that I backed as a Kickstarter any day now) but it was the shape of this one that caught my eye.
As I read on, I learned that it was a remix of someone else's design, a common experience on Thingiverse and something that is encouraged (I do like the community's "pick it up and run with it" attitude to sharing designs) but what really grabbed my attention was the fact that the designer incorporated magnets. These not only allow for a solid grip between the base and the holder but they also mean that you can rotate the base to help reach all of the model without any painful hand contortions or wrist gymnastics.
It took all of two hours to print the parts on the CR-10, superglue the handle to the base and then the two magnets - one in the base, the other in the holder.
Here's my printed version in action and I can attest to the fact that the handle is surprisingly comfortable to grip and does the job exceedingly well.
Dynamic Elemental on the CR-10
After getting such good results with the 'Bobbing Cat' test print on the CR-10, I decided I needed to try something else. Something less polished. Something with more angles. Something that I might actually want to use on the tabletop.
Cue the Elemental Golem dynamic pose & base by MalastrumDominiSui
This time I sliced the file myself in Simplify3D. (www.simplify3d.com)
I didn't scale it at all and the printed model came out at around 45mm x 65mm or what I would class as Ogre-sized (a 10'x10' base creature if played at 25mm-28mm scale).
Not knowing how good/bad it would be, I elected to just print it at 0.2mm layer height rather than the 0.1mm or 0.15mm layer height that was recommended.
I got Simplify3D to auto-generate the supports (just in case) and set it away. A little over an hour and a quarter later it had finished and I popped it off the bed and removed the support material and what little stringing/whisps there was around the points/spikes, etc.
After priming it black, I hit the (very nicely textured base) with a 90% coverage of Burnt Umber. The rest of the model got the same kind of rough base-coating (90%) but this time in Slate Grey.
I gave it 15 minutes of drying time and then did a very rough bit of 50% coverage to both base and model using Mocca Brown and Storm Grey respectively. I painted the inner mouth by wet-blending Red, Orange and Yellow (paint the majority of the area red first, then apply some orange to the middle 2/3rds and finally paint yellow into the middle - all while wet) to give it a molten magma look. The teeth were painted using a Pearlescent Metallic White to simulate crystals/diamonds, etc. The eyes were just red with a yellow pupil.
After another 15 minutes of drying time I then did some rough dry-brushing - Light Grey for the model and Light Tan for the base.
Once it had 10 minutes to dry, I hit the entire thing (base and all) with a dark wash (in my case I used Army Painter Strong Tone) and allowed it to dry overnight.
Next day I did a final light dusting of dry-brushing (same colours as previous dry-brushing) and then called it done.
In total I would estimate that it took less than 20 minutes of actual painting time (ignoring the drying time, since I would usually be painting multiple figures and not waiting around for paint to dry) and for a first attempt on a medium resolution print, I think it turned out OK.
I'm very pleased with the actual model file and I can see me printing this one again (probably in either 0.1 or 0.15mm layer height) and maybes going for whites/blues to make it an Ice Elemental.
A saltbeard Grognard who's glad he never grew up enough to lose his imagination.