Junk Yard scenery
As part of Hayland Terrain’s “Universal Tile – 28mm Terrain” Kickstarter there was a collection of files labelled as “Junk Yard Set”. I printed them out a while ago for use in another project, but they never got used and as such, I didn’t take any ‘before’ photos of them fresh off the printer. In fact, they were done so long ago that I can’t recall which machine I printed them on or what settings I used beyond PLA and my standard 0.2mm layer height. The level of infill is a mystery, but by weight I’d say between 10 to 20%.
Here’s the finished models – the crusher and large/small junk piles.
Here’s the reverse view with a Hot Wheels car thrown in for scale.
Rusting Fuel Silos and Gas Tanks
The basis for these bits of scenery come from the Necroplex Kickstarter – namely the bases, end caps, and a couple of support brackets. You can buy the Canister Pack directly from Necroplex.com now.
They were printed on a Cetus-3D in PLA at a 0.2mm layer height using a 20% infill for speed vs. strength.
Then I attached them to a few empty soft drink cans and roughly primed them in red and brown splotches - ideally, leave them to dry between colours or you’ll get the muddy-brown mess that I did!
Here are the vertical silos.
And here is the tank.
The next step is to liberally coat them with hairspray - any brand, but get the ‘firmest hold’ you can find. This will form a protective layer between the underlying ‘rust colour’ and the actual paint colour I want them to be. Sounds weird, but there’s method in my madness…
Once the hairspray has totally dried, it’s time to apply the top colours. However, before they dry I take a wet toothbrush (preferably one that nobody is going to use – unless you have a hated sibling!) and scrub/scuff away at various areas to reveal the ‘rust colour’ underneath. The hairspray is acting as a barrier so only the top coat is being removed.
If I wanted a more chipped/pitted effect, I would have sprinkled salt (either sea salt granules or table salt grains, depending on the texture I wanted) onto the freshly sprayed hairspray before the top coat stage.
This gives a similar effect to the chipping mediums you can buy for miniatures, etc. but at a fraction of the price – which is important when you’re looking at large/multiple pieces of terrain.
This next image is after the main top colours have been applied and ‘attacked’ with a wet toothbrush (to hit the main areas and get into the angles) and some kitchen towel (to scrub away and dab at edges to add shape).
Next up is painting the metal work and then (while it’s still wet) dabbing at it with more kitchen towel to remove bits and reveal the base rust colours.
Final touches are a couple of sponged on stencils and an overall grimy wash.
Here are the finished items – front view.
A rear view with the horizontal tank in front.
Gaslands Scenery from Hayland Terrain
More scenery from Hayland Terrain, this time from their Fantasy Scatter stretch goal pack from their 28mm Fantasy Scenery - Dragonbite – OpenLOCK Kickstarter (not sure if you can buy this from their website), as well as some more bits from the Gaslands Street Accessories pack (https://haylandterrain.com/collections/gaslands). Just to show that you can often mix 28mm stuff in with 20mm scenery, so don’t be afraid to improvise.
All were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA using a 0.2mm layer height and 13% infill for the brick pieces and 20% infill for the two bits that have metalwork, just to help prevent breakages.
A closer look at the 28mm bits from the fantasy scatter pack.
And here's the 20mm bits from the Gaslands Street Accessories pack.
Now, as they’re based and painted, it’s onwards to more stuff…
So I'm finally back up and about after my health took a dip and laid me out for the end part of 2017.
I was asked to help out a couple of friends at my gaming club (W.A.R.P.) who wanted to give the new version (v8) of Warhammer 40K a try. They had the game rules and the models, and I had a new battlemat to try as well as a ridonculous amount of (sadly still unpainted) scenery so I was happy to help out.
The 6'x4' battlemat is the Desert Earth one from Leodis Games Board Matz range. I got mine from their recent Kickstarter (shocker, I know!) and they have since expanded the range to include many more styles.
With the exception of the rear gantry, the tall spire/furnace bits sitting on top and the Games Workshop minis/vehicles/dice, everything else on the table is 3D printed.
Oh, not the long pipes (that's PVC piping) and the tanks of the two storage tanks with ladders on just beyond the fencing (they are Coke cans), but everything else is. Honest!
Some eye candy for the 40K fans.
And there's just something that appeals to me about this Nurgle Mortar piece.
I should also say that the scenery on the table was about a quarter of what I had brought along, which in turn was about a third of what I have printed so far.
I suspect I may need more space soon since the new Fallout skirmish game is rumoured to be about to land and I have a stupid amount of post-apocalypse scenery that needs printing...
A good friend of mine (Vontravelle) came to my aid one night when a water pipe burst in the kitchen and so I was more than happy to help him out when he asked me for a favour. He's a fellow GM at our local gaming club (W.A.R.P.) and he's currently running a Call of Cthulhu game wherein he found himself in need of a Cthonian critter to inflict upon his players.
He found this model on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080964
However, he was unsure of how to get it printed on his newly acquired printer since it isn't a 'printer ready' .STL file, but rather a 3D model object (.obj) file.
I went through the problems of getting it to print - scaling it up, adding support materials, etc. and I could see he wasn't looking too confident so I offered to work on it for him.
First I loaded it into the new version of Simplify3D (v4) and set about scaling it up to 60mm. Next I manually added in some support material to all of the areas that I thought my Creality CR-10 would need them - namely the tentacles and one small area of body overhang. Finally, I altered the layer height down from 0.2mm to 0.15mm and then saved off the gcode to a memory card ready for printing.
Two hours and twenty minutes later, here's what it came out like.
The tentacles need a touch up (ooh, er, madam!) and I'll probably sculpt some additional ones to add into its maw because I just think it needs them.
While looking for some painting inspiration (do YOU know what colour these things are supposed to be?) I came across a fantastic painting guide online by a chap called Joe Baird - The Broken Paintbrush. I thoroughly recommend you pay his blog (https://brokenpaintbrush.com) or G+ page (https://plus.google.com/+Brokenpaintbrushpage) a visit.
Here's the other side. Also, I've just blasted it with a hairdryer on hot to soften up the PLA and that has allowed me to enhance the bend on some of the existing tentacles.
It's gone 2.15am now so I'll set about sculpting with the green stuff tomorrow and see if I can get some paint on it before the game on Sunday.
Later that morning I quickly rolled up some green stuff tentacles and started twisting them into shape.
I'll apply a little detail when they begin to harden and once they're completely dry I'll cut/dry fit them until I'm happy with the look
Here's the model primed and awaiting the (slowly) drying tentacles. The miniature holder is one of the ones I got as part of a Kickstarter run by Rathcore.com. I got one of each (32, 54 and 75mm) and that's the mid-sized one with the 54mm bar. They are extremely useful and very comfortable to hold for extended periods. I had no idea how much more 'usable' a mini holder is when it has a finger bar on it and how much hand tremor it can alleviate. I still use my old standby of a paint pot with 'Blutack' (poster putty) on it to do quick paint jobs or when I'm batch base coating, etc.
The patches of green stuff are filling small holes left from the rendered model not meshing a few of the very extreme overhangs amongst the base rubble properly. As I said, this wasn't a 'ready to print' file and if time hadn't been such an issue I'd have liked to rework/remodel a lot more of it in order to avoid these issues. Still, it used up the tiny amount of green stuff left over from sculpting the tentacles, so no waste.
While I type this up I'm 'baking' the green stuff tentacles on the CR-10's hotbed as I print some test 25mm miniature bases for some of the models I got from the Reaper Bones 3 Kickstarter. A bit of an experiment but hey, the bed would be on while I was doing the printing so I figured why not?
And here he/she/it is, fully tentacled up.
Once the glue has had time to dry I'll prime the green stuff and then try and get some paint on it tonight before I host my Saturday Roll20 session.
Here's a quick pic I managed to snap before I handed off the finished model.
Not the best paint job in the world, but for less than an hour in total (including varnishing), good enough to put on a table and scare the beejebus out of some unsuspecting Call of Cthulhu players...
Losing the will to live as I try to work out how the fek I'm supposed to fit all of this stuff into a 4'x4' area...
Chris (Readon), Richard (Morgan Darkstar) and myself got to roll some dice in anger this weekend for our first session of Games Workshop's "Shadow War: Armageddon".
Sadly the battle mat that I had ordered from Gamemat.eu (gamemat.eu ) was delayed by a European bank holiday and so didn't arrive in time. Still, Readon stepped up and saved the day by bringing along his Citadel green fields cloth so it didn't look like we were fighting on ice!
Here are some photos of what is (currently) around 65% of the sci-fi scenery I have. Please forgive the garish mishmash of colours but I print in whatever colour filament is currently available cheapest in my preferred brands. They will all look much better once I have them painted... eventually, I promise!
Same layout, different view.
And from the other side.
And finally, a more elevated/top-down angle.
These are parts of Printable Scenery's Gothic Sci-Fi building range. They come in variety of shapes with different internal/external detailing but are all married to the same theme so that you can basically just mix and match them to produce any type of building layout you'd like.
They also come in 'ruined' versions, so you can display them with holes blown in them, etc.
These were all printed on the Creality CR-10 in PLA using a 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill.
Here is the matching roof section and a shot of the interiors.
As I previously mentioned, they come in a variety of shapes, all with suitable roof sections.
These ones allow you to 'go wide' by incorporating support pillars.
Here's a corner piece. This opens up more possibilities.
And this last piece allows you to go 'super wide' by adding as many internal sections as you'd like.
I was hunting for some images to convert into greebles/icons to mount on various pieces of scenery. These are from a mixture of Yeggi and Thingiverse sources and depict a range from the Adeptus Mechanicus chapter as well as the Astartes' Aquilla. These are all fully scalable and so they (along with others for the Arbites, Inquisition and various chapters) will be used to give additional detailing to models where needed.
They were all printed in PLA on the Creality CR-10 at 0.2mm using a 10% infill and the sharpness/thinness of the Aquilla detail is pretty damned scary considering it measures a mere 5cm from wingtip to wingtip and it's printed on such a massive machine!
Speaking of buildings to mount the greebles and icons on to...
This is the Gothic Sci-Fi armoury building from Printable Scenery.
The main building was printed in one piece and the roof is made up of six smaller sections that I have superglued together.
Whilst I appreciate the fact that the roof comes in sections so that you can add in/swap out parts (such as gun emplacements, etc.) I wish it had a 'one-piece' version to speed up printing.
This was done on the Creality CR-10 in PLA using a 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill.
Amongst the (many, many) things I have been printing for Shadow War: Armageddon are the Gothic Sci-Fi Pipeline pieces that I picked up as part of a Kickstarter by Printable Scenery. The level of detail is awesome and fits right in with the Ad-Mech skull motifs on Games Workshop's Promethium Refinery kit - part of which can be seen in the background.
These were all printed on the Cetus in PLA at 0.2mm/13% infill.
The pieces will be joined by pipes (duh!) but rather than print the pipework, I opted to use some PVC piping - as used in plumbing.
There are a ring of rivets on the back edges of the pieces and so I looked for pipe that had a diameter less than those - anything less than 40mm in fact. I found a 32mm one that meant it would definitely fit and leave room any tolerance issues. If you're in the UK, I used Wickes Black Solvent Weld pipe and a 1.5m length of it cost me £1.49. That should be way more than I'm going to need but it's always better to have spare, just in case.
Anyways, I was pondering on ways to attach the pieces to the pipe sections but I knew that I didn't just want to glue them since they would need to come apart for easy storage. I was in the process of measuring the internal diameter of the pipe so that I could print a semicircular 'lug' and glue that to the piece and then just rest the pipe on it, when the battery in my digital callipers gave out. A most fortunate event as it turned out...
A friend of mine called in to see me just as I was dismantling the callipers to get access to the battery and when I explained what I was doing he came up with a rather brilliant idea - namely the use of circular 'floor protectors'. He happens to work in a store where they sell such things and offered to pick some up for me. They come with an adhesive backing and so you just peel them off and stick them on. A word of advice though, the ones I got were super grabby so if you don't dry fit them first and mark around them you could end up with wonky pipework. The pipe and pads are in the image below. If you're in the UK, the pads are from Wilkinsons and are called 'Foam Round Floor Protectors'. The pack of 18 cost £1. Again, more than enough.
As an added bonus, if you don't attach a pipe you can still paint the pad so that it looks like a mesh grill. Thanks Vontravelle, smart idea!
Here's a couple of photos of the "not-a-Rhino" that I printed for a friend. He was after a Rhino for use with his 30K pre-civil war Space Wolves and knowing how much he loves to kit-bash stuff I thought I'd help him out.
Unfortunately, I don't play Warhammer 40K so what he actually ended up with was my version of a Land Raider cobbled together from 3 or 4 online designs. He seemed happy enough with it though and so I left him to it. Within a couple of days he had turned the pile of bits into this...
Well done Loupis, crackin' job sir!
So when I called in to see my buddy Loupis for a cuppa (and to photograph his painted Land Raider, see above) I also used the opportunity to try assembling/laying out some of the scenery I have been printing for Shadow War: Armageddon alongside some of his Space Wolves to gauge scale and possible skirmish area sizes.
This is about 70% of what I have printed so far which in turn is less than half of what is currently on my 'to-print' list, let alone the stuff that comes in the GW SW:Ag box set. I've invested in two 6'x3' tables - Loupis thinks I may need more tables...
A saltbeard Grognard who's glad he never grew up enough to lose his imagination.