My latest project finally arrived today - well, 95% of it as the remaining two bits are lagging a week behind.
The box contains almost all my Fallout Wasteland Warfare Vault Tec Complete Package (https://www.modiphius.net/collections/fallout-wasteland-warfare/products/fallout-wasteland-warfare-vault-tec-complete-package-bundle), with just the two sets of Wasteland Starter Scenery due to ship next week.
Modipius has been plagued by delays in getting this stuff out (I ordered mine way back in March) but I have to say that although the wait has been agony, the final product is amazing!
In total there are 86 minis, 73 are resin and the 13 in the 2 Player Starter Set are PVC. I believe that they’re opting to go resin on all future core boxes and expansions and just keeping the starter sets as PVC to reduce costs and shipping weight.
I’ll pop more photos up once I start assembling and painting as I have been designing and printing some 3D additions to add to the tabletop experience.
3D Printed Miniatures – Some Initial Tests
Having followed Danny H, the 3D Printed Tabletop DM on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCr_uz-iWzyR1VJNlN-E1y7w) almost since he began, I thought it was about time I had another go at doing some gaming miniatures rather than my usual tabletop scenery. Following the advice in the Tabletop 3D Printing Guild Facebook pages (https://www.facebook.com/groups/892975347554507/?source_id=169821116961583), I decided to use the two free demo files from HeroForge.com as my test subjects. The female Explorer and the male Paladin.
Initially, I’m just printing them on my Creality CR-10 in PLA using the ‘Miniatures’ settings in Chris Elkin’s Simplify3D profile (available from the CR-10 Printer User Group on Facebook). Later, I’ll try them on my other machines, and again on the CR-10 but using a Cura profile (which will be new to me) on the CR-10 and the soon-to-arrive Creality Ender 3.
First up is the female Explorer figure. After loading the file into Simplify3D, placing it base down on the build plate and adjusting the auto-support setting down from 4.5mm to 1.5mm, I added a couple of extra supports that the auto settings had missed. I find that it’s always a good idea to give it an all-around once over eyeball first before committing it to slice since S3D can be lazy at times when it comes to placing supports. I saved the .gcode off to a micro-SD card after slicing the file - S3D claimed it would take 1 hour 28 minutes to print.
BTW, it lied.
After setting the print away on the CR-10, two hours 3 minutes later I was presented with this.
Buried amongst that mass of plastic there is (hopefully) an acceptable mini.
Taking it off the print bed and over to the work area, I examine the results in closer detail. Nothing seems wonky or broken. We shall see once I begin to cut away the support material.
And here she is.
That pile of shredded junk next to her is the removed support material. It took about five minutes to free her up, making sure not to either (a) be too heavy-handed and apply too much pressure in the wrong place, and (b) be too snip-happy with the side cutters and trim away anything that wasn’t actually meant to be cut off!
Been there before in both cases…
Here’s the back of the figure. She still needs a bit of touching up (oo-er, missus!) to get rid of some small defects and apart from the lower corner of her book and the bottom edge of her rear armour, I can’t immediately spot anything that’s gone awry.
We’ll see what the final results look like once she’s been painted and I’ll compare her to the other ones from my other printers.
This is the male Paladin figure after removal from the CR-10 build plate. Same settings as used on the Female Explorer above. Simplify3D said 1 hour 32 minutes, but the actual time it took was 2 hours 3 minutes.
No obvious damage or defects but even with smaller supports, there is still a bunch of stuff to strip away to reveal the print. Time to get snipping. I don’t think this one will be as easy to free up as the first one.
I was right. The support material was a bit of a nightmare to get rid of and cleaning the mess out from between the Paladins legs - well, let’s just say that’s a phrase I hope never to have to repeat again…
Overall though, I think it turned out OK. The sword blade definitely needs ‘sharpening’ but otherwise, the detail came out and more importantly, nothing got lost – either in the printing or support removal stages.
Here they are painted, standing atop a piece of Amera terrain (F218 Temple Ruins). All painted/detailed by my buddy Loupis.
A brighter (but crappier) pic taken with the flash on my phone.
You can find the Amera website here.
amera.co.uk - Amera Plastic Mouldings
The Juggernaut (a Genestealer Cults Galyat Truck proxy)
I run Gaslands as part of an RPG I put together called ‘The Gas Hack’ and one of the missions my group have been tasked to do is to take down a borderlands preacher who has managed to get himself a disused factory, an abandoned mine, and a militia! He’s currently stirring up trouble by preaching anti-Mars sermons to those who support him whilst ‘reprimanding’ those who don’t. Those reprimands take the form of armed raids using his militia (the ‘Sword of the Lord’) and a massive piece of earth-moving equipment, called “The Juggernaut”.
After a lot of time spent searching for a suitable die-cast model that I could use (that didn’t cost an arm and a leg), I gave up and turned to Thingiverse. That’s where I found this beauty – a Genestealer Cults Galyat Truck UPDATED by Gynovin) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736962)
It’s scaled to 28mm (1:56) but since I wanted it to be ma-hoo-sive™, I elected to leave it full size.
It was printed on the Creality CR-10 in PLA at 0.2mm layer height with infills of 10-20% for most and 100% for the guns and railings.
Here's the other side.
More pictures. It needs a spot of kit-bashing and painting, but for now, check out this bad boy. The Breaking Bad figures and Hot Wheels truck are there to show off its size!
Thanks to Loupis, the truck finally has a paint scheme.
Nicely understated and functional. I really like the way it has come out.
I’m running Gaslands as part of an RPG campaign and so I have ‘tweaked’ some of the regular events to add a little bit of mischief to things for the players. This House Rule is a modified version of a mission from Axles & Alloys 2 – Dork Future.
The Warden’s Surprise – Swords, Shields, and Skulls!
Influenced by a recent film, which itself was probably influenced by a few violent racing videogames, Warden Cadeila has taken it upon herself to install some “unofficial upgrades” into her home arena. Also, the weapons on all the vehicles have temporarily been linked to kill-switches controlled by the Warden.
Set-up and deployment is done as a standard Death Race with the following exceptions/amendments.
Add a few 1” diameter counters to the table, each marked with a Sword, a Shield or a Skull – one of each for every player vehicle (or team, if playing a regular/non-RPG event).
A vehicle cannot fire it’s Shooting/Explosive Weapons until it has run over a Sword, and a vehicle cannot fire it’s Dropped Weapons until it has run over a Shield. However, the Warden is not above a bit of underhand interference – anytime a non-Warden vehicle attempts to activate a Sword or Shield marker, roll 1d6 and on a ‘6’ the marker fails to activate that time. Note that handguns and Grenades/Molotovs work at all times, as do non-exploding rams.
Skulls represent sunken steel posts with spikes that start the game below the surface of the arena. When sunken, the Skulls Posts can be driven over and ignored. They can be raised by the Gas Master at any point, usually to make life awkward for a driver who is staying out of the fight or is getting just too lucky or too cocky. Skull Posts are immobile Heavyweight Objects and therefore damaging to any vehicle that collides with one. Once activated, a Skull Post will remain in the arena until the event ends.
I designed some 3D printed counters to represent the ‘plates’ on the floor of my arenas. I have uploaded the files into Thingiverse if anyone else wants to torment their players.
Gaslands Warden’s Surprise Plates
Gaslands Smoke Trails
I wanted something to show when a vehicle had either floored the accelerator or stamped on the breaks, so I designed these Smoke Trails.
They were printed on the Creality CR-10 in PLA at a 0.2mm layer height using a 20% infill.
There are two versions, on with a small base and the other with no base. If your players tend to bump or jostle the table, I’d go with the based versions.
At some point in the future I may give it a go to create some curved smoke trails, so that we can simulate burning doughnuts or figure-of-eights, etc.
You can find these on Thingiverse as Gaslands Smoke Trails.
Gaslands Vehicle Markers
I designed some markers to place on vehicles in order to show certain in-game effects.
They were all printed in PLA on the Creality CR-10 at 0.2mm layer height, using a 20% infill. Many of them are designed to be magnetized if that’s what floats your boat.
I have uploaded the .STL files to Thingiverse and will put the links next to each one below.
First up is the Explosion Marker.
Painted as it is, it adds quite a striking visual to the scene.
You’ll find it here on Thingiverse – Gaslands Explosion Marker.
Next up is the On-Fire/Burning Marker.
Again, I think it does the job without getting in the way too much.
You’ll find it here on Thingiverse – Gaslands On-Fire Marker.
Pop-up Bollards, Direction Arrows & Gate Indicators (Hayland Terrain)
These little beauties come from Hayland Terrain’s “Gasland Girders and Gates Pack”
There’s a host of other useful bits in the pack but I wanted to show these off. They were printed on the Cetus-3D in PLA using a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height and a 13% infill.
Here's a standard Hot Wheels vehicle amongst the direction arrows. All of the bollards, gate and direction markers are the same scale (20-25mm). Obviously, if you want to play at 28mm or 6mm you can scale them up/down accordingly in your slicing software prior to printing.
Painting wise, all I did was prime them black, then roughly overbrushed them in gunmetal before the arrow and number details were painted yellow. Finally, I hit them all with a muddy black wash and now that they are fully dry they’re ready to take their place in my asphalt arenas.
Don’t bin that, repurpose it!
Here’s a handy tip for anyone with access to a 3D printer - even if it’s just one at a library or maker space.
Often 3D items need to be printed on something that’s called a ‘raft’ (a small, thin, flat layer) that helps the item stick to the printer bed during printing. These are normally discarded after the item has finished printing and been removed from the machine. START SAVING THEM!
I don’t use rafts anymore since all of my machines now either have a heated bed or a build surface, but luckily (or rather, because I’m a secret hoarder!) I tossed mine into my failed prints box rather than the rubbish bin. I now have a load of (a) ready-to-use scenery bases, and (b) oodles of mesh/grid work for kit-bashing.
So even if you don’t use a 3D printer yourself, go ask anyone you know who has one (or whoever runs the printers at the library/maker space) if they can save them for you.
Gaslands Game Tracker
This very handy do-dad is from jpri69 on Thingiverse - it's a "Gaslands Game Tracker".
Just print it out, add a couple of D6 or a D6 and a D10, depending on how long your games tend to last.
Game Tracker by jpri69
This is the one I printed out on my Creality CR-10 (using PLA, 0.12mm layer height at 20% infill), fully populated with dice.
I may paint the lettering at a later date but to be honest it doesn't really need it.
My new best friend... a pack of metallic Sharpie markers!
TV Cameras for Gaslands
If you’re hosting a global pay-per-view carnage event, then you’d better be sure you don’t miss any of the action. Here’s where these TV Cameras and Gantry Towers come in from Hayland Terrain’s "Gaslands Desert Track and Cameras Pack” (https://haylandterrain.com/collections/gaslands/products/gaslands-desert-track-cameras-3d-printable)
These were printed in PLA on the Cetus-3D at 0.2mm layer height and using a 20% infill.
Quick to print, quick to paint and base, all ready for the upcoming action!
A saltbeard Grognard who's glad he never grew up enough to lose his imagination.